Sport Anchors – Part 2 of 5 – Lowering

'Sport Anchors - Lowering' is part of the e-book - Sport Climbing Basics.

VDiff learn to sport climb free e-book ebook

Lowering from a Sport Climb

Lowering is the simplest method of descent.

You Will Need:
* Two spare quickdraws

Best Situation To Use this Method
- When someone else will lead the climb after you
- When you plan to leave all your quickdraws on the bolts for the next climber

Step 1
Clip a quickdraw into each bolt. Make sure the rope-end carabiners have their gates facing outwards.

If there are chains or rings on the bolts, clipping your quickdraws underneath puts them in a better orientation.

Sport climbing anchor lowering chains

Step 2
Clip the rope through the quickdraws from the back so the rope is coming out towards you.

Sport climbing anchor lowering chains

Step 3
Ask your belayer to take you tight. You are now ready to lower.

Sport climbing anchor lowering chains

Step 4
Lower down, leaving the lead quickdraws in place.

Be careful - if you swing around to unclip quickdraws on your descent, the rope could snap through the carabiners at the anchor.

If you must remove the lead quickdraws, consider setting up the anchor as you would for a top rope.


Warning
Only lower down like this if someone else will lead next. It is dangerous to top rope from two quickdraws.

Sport climbing anchor lowering chains

Extending the Anchor

Never connect quickdraws together like this.

If you need to extend the anchor for lowering or any other reason, make sure to use a sling or cordelette instead, as described here.

clipping quickdraws together


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