Why I Climb Big Rocks > Part 3 – Loner

I’ve always enjoyed spending time by myself.

When I’m alone I can do anything I want and no-one knows.

climber and haulbag

I chose The Diamond of Long’s Peak for my first big solo.

Diamond longs peak climbing

I saved money…
… by buying old gear.

I saved weight…
… by not bringing enough food or spare clothes.

And I had the route to myself…
… because I didn’t check the weather forecast.

I found a nice ledge half way up, and settled in for the night.

big wall bivi

But then a massive storm thundered over the mountain…

how to sleep on a big wall

… and the route turned into a waterfall…

camping on the diamond, longs peak

… which froze.

It wasn’t the best night’s sleep.

sleeping on a big wall without a portaledge

I chose El Cap as my next solo mission.

El Cap rock climbing

I saved money…
… by not buying a portaledge.

I had the route to myself…
… because it was over 100°F.

I saved weight…
… by not bringing enough water.

And I saved time…
… by not learning the proper skills.

My haulbag was stuck, again, 30 meters below.

I had to abseil down to dislodge it.

big wall hauling

I chose to descend on the other end of the haul rope.

I didn’t back myself up with the lead rope.

big wall climbing

I reached the haulbag with just enough rope and pulled it from the crack.

But I’d made a marvelous error.

how to haul on a big wall

Weighing much less than me, the haulbag rocketed 30 meters up towards the belay, while I fell in the opposite direction.

It was the fastest haul I’ve ever done.

how not to haul on a big wall

I exhausted my water supply the next day.

And crawled onto the summit the day after that.

El Cap aid solo using silent partner

On the top of El Cap, there was nothing there.

Solo el cap aid climbing

I’d found what I was looking for.

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