'Essential Knots: Figure-8 on a Bight' is part of the book - Sport Climbing Basics.
The figure-8 on a bight is used for:
- Attaching the rope to a belay anchor
- Creating a master point in a cordelette or sling
- Attaching yourself to the rope when cleaning an anchor
How to Tie the Figure-8 on a Bight
Form an ‘8’ shape in the rope as shown.
Push the end of the rope through the top part of the 8.
Pull it tight.
Make sure to add a stopper knot when tying a figure-8 in the end of a rope.
Figure-8’s are designed to be end-loaded (pulled along the line of the knot).
If you load the loop in two opposing directions, the knot can roll over itself and lose strength or fail completely. For this reason, you should never use the figure-8 to join ropes for abseiling. Use the overhand knot instead.
Tying Into the Middle of a Rope
You can use a variation of the figure-8 to tie into the middle of a rope. Tie in to the rope with a figure-8 as normal, but use a bight of rope instead. Clip the final loop into your belay loop to complete the knot.