Figure-8 on a Bight

'Essential Knots: Figure-8 on a Bight' is part of the book - Sport Climbing Basics.

VDiff learn to sport climb e-book book

The figure-8 on a bight is used for:
- Attaching the rope to a belay anchor
- Creating a master point in a cordelette or sling
- Attaching yourself to the rope when cleaning an anchor

how to tie the figure 8 bight

How to Tie the Figure-8 on a Bight

Step 1
Form an ‘8’ shape in the rope as shown.

how to tie the figure 8 on a bight

Step 2
Push the end of the rope through the top part of the 8.

figure 8 on a bight

Step 3
Pull it tight.

tie figure-8 on a bight

Stopper Knot
Make sure to add a stopper knot when tying a figure-8 in the end of a rope.

tie figure-8 on a bight

VDiff sport climbing book

Figure-8’s are designed to be end-loaded (pulled along the line of the knot).

tie figure-8 on a bight climbing

If you load the loop in two opposing directions, the knot can roll over itself and lose strength or fail completely. For this reason, you should never use the figure-8 to join ropes for abseiling. Use the overhand knot instead.

tie figure-8 on a bight climbing

Tying Into the Middle of a Rope

You can use a variation of the figure-8 to tie into the middle of a rope. Tie in to the rope with a figure-8 as normal, but use a bight of rope instead. Clip the final loop into your belay loop to complete the knot.

tie to middle of rope

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