Rock Climbing Knots: The Garda Hitch (Alpine Clutch)
The garda hitch uses two parallel carabiners to create a system where a loaded rope can move in one direction but not the other.
Uses:
– As an improvised hauling device for light loads.
– As a ratchet pulley when hauling your partner.
How to Tie a Garda Hitch
Step 1
Secure two D-shaped carabiners together with a girth hitch so they lie parallel with the gates on the same side.
Step 2
Clip the rope through both carabiners.
Step 3
Form a loop in the non-loaded strand as shown.
Step 4
Clip this loop through the left carabiner and fasten the screwgates.
Step 5
Pull the loop back so it sits around the spine of the carabiners.
Step 6
The garda hitch is now complete.
You will be able to pull rope through in one direction only. Make sure you have it the right way around.
Garda Hitch Warnings
* The garda hitch is a one-direction knot – it cannot be released under load. Be careful how you employ it.
* It’s vital that you use D-shaped carabiners. A garda hitch tied on HMS or oval carabiners is prone to slipping down which causes the knot to fail.
* You must girth hitch the two carabiners together. If you simply clip the carabiners through a sling or another carabiner, the garda hitch will not function correctly.
