You Will Need:
* Four screwgate carabiners
* A cordelette/ long sling
Best Situation To Use this Method
- If the next climber will top rope the route
When you reach the anchor, clip a screwgate carabiner directly into each bolt. They will be better orientated if you clip them underneath the lowering chains.
Clip the sling or cordelette to both carabiners. Pull it down in the middle so both strands of sling are equal.
Tie an overhand knot in it.
This creates a central point.
Clip two screwgate carabiners into the central point with their gates facing in opposite directions.
Clip the rope through the carabiners from the back so the rope is coming out towards you.
Ask your belayer to take you tight. You are now ready to lower and the top rope is set.
A more advanced, but often better, alternative is to use the quad anchor.