Improvised Hauling
Improvised Hauling * This article is about using improvised basic hauling techniques while trad climbing. To learn more about hauling on big walls, see our article here. Hauling a bag on a separate rope can…
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Climbing on Loose Rock and Runout Routes
Climbing on Loose Rock and Runout Routes Accidents involving loose rock fall into three main categories:1) Belayers being hit by rocks from the leader2) Leaders falling because they held/ stood on loose rock3) Being hit…
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Abseiling > Bad Anchors and Loose Rock
Abseiling > Bad Anchors and Loose Rock Poor abseil anchors are often found on seldom travelled multi-pitch descents or alpine ridge traverses. Sometimes there is no anchor where you need one, or the existing anchor…
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Self Rescue > Escaping the Belay
Self Rescue > Escaping the Belay The belay escape is a technique whereby the belayer frees themselves from the responsibilities of belaying. This fundamental skill is necessary for many rescue situations. Situations when you may…
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Self Rescue > Introduction
Self Rescue > Introduction Having a good knowledge of self-rescue skills is essential for any climber. The more effectively you are able to improve a poor situation (e.g; if you are able to escape the…
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Advanced Trad Anchors > Minimal Gear Anchors
Advanced Trad Anchors > Minimal Gear Anchors The following minimal gear anchors are great to know in case you reach the top of a pitch without a cordelette, only a meter of rope to spare…
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Advanced Trad Anchors > The Sliding-X
Advanced Trad Anchors > The Sliding-X AdvantagesThe main advantage of using a self-equalizing anchor is that it continues to distribute the load equally between the anchor pieces as the loading direction changes. This maintains a…
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Advanced Trad Anchors > Getting Perfect Equalization
Advanced Trad Anchors > Getting Perfect Equalization In Trad Climbing Basics, we introduced various methods of creating belay master points by tying an overhand knot in a sling or cordelette. These methods are safe, simple…
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Crevasse Rescue > Raising Systems
Crevasse Rescue > Raising Systems Imagine you are travelling on a glacier as a team of two, and your partner in front suddenly disappears down into the snow. Step 1The first and most important thing…
