Fall Factors and kN Ratings: What They Actually Mean kN ratings are shown on all your climbing gear: nuts, cams, slings and carabiners. kN stands for kilo Newtons. 1kN is about 100kg (220lbs for the Americans)….
How To Use Half (Double) Ropes Half ropes (also known as double ropes) are thinner than normal ‘single’ ropes, and are designed to be used as a pair. Best Situations to Use Half Ropes– When…
Leading Trad > When To Place Gear Trad gear is normally placed in cracks, behind flakes and around blocks. The important thing to remember is that these features are weaknesses in the rock. Some of…
Nylon or Dyneema Slings? Nylon Climbing Slings Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. This makes them the best choice for situations such as…
Extendable Quickdraws Extendable quickdraws (or alpine draws) are usually made from a 60cm sling and two snap gate carabiners. They can be used either as a short draw or fully extended, meaning it’s quick and…
Trad Climbing Gear > Big Bros Big Bros are expandable tubes which protect wide cracks. They are lighter and more compact than large cams but are harder to place, cannot be shuffled up the crack…
Trad Climbing Gear > Ball Nuts Ball nuts are a seldom used type of climbing gear which offer protection in thin cracks, filling the void where even the smallest cams are too big to fit….
Learn how to place hexes; how to use them passively (like a nut) or actively so they cam into cracks. Learn how to place, remove and rack climbing hexes.
Trad Climbing Gear > Tricams Tricams work in a similar way to hexes; they can be placed in ‘passive’ mode like a nut, and also in ‘active’ mode. When a tricam is weighted in active…
Trad Climbing Gear > Slings Climbing slings are strongly-sewn loops of nylon or dyneema tape. They’re available in a range of lengths – your typical trad rack will have 60cm, 120cm and maybe a 240cm…
Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. This article explains everything about using climbing nuts: placing, racking and removing them.
Learn how to place climbing cams. This article explains the physics of how climbing cams work, and also how to place, remove and rack them.
In addition to the gear you use in an indoor wall or at a sport crag, you’ll need some more specialist kit to climb a trad route. This article explains all.
Climbing Helmets A climbing helmet is the first thing you should buy when you start trad climbing. They protect your head from things falling on you (rocks, equipment, etc..) and also from your head hitting…
What Is Trad Climbing? Trad climbing is adventurous. When trad climbing, the leader must place their own gear in the rock. Typically, there are no pre-existing bolts. To be safe when trad climbing, the leader…
